12 Things to Consider When Photographing Boats

12 Things to Consider When Photographing Boats

12 Things to Consider When Photographing Boats

By Allan Weitz

 

12 Things to Consider When Photographing Boats

Photographs © Allan Weitz

 

 

 

Many photographers have niche specialties for which they are known, intentionally or otherwise.

My niche (one of them anyway) is… boat photography, a specialty I innocently and unintentionally stumbled into many years ago.

The following 12 elements are worth considering when setting out to photograph boats, large or small.

Some aspects over which you have control include cameras, lenses, shooting platforms, accessorizing, and the ability to choose when and where you make pictures.

Other issues, such as weather and having the ability to delay or change the times for sunrise or sunset are beyond your control—you have to live by and work around these elements.

1. Light

Photography is about light, and boat photography is no exception.

As with landscape and architectural photography, the best time to photographs boats is almost always early morning and late afternoon.

Boat hulls typically taper toward the waterline. Early morning and late day sunlight illuminate the deeper recesses of the boat’s hull.

As the sun climbs upward, contrast builds and these recesses fall into shadow.

The color balance is also warmer and less contrasty earlier and later in the day, compared to the harsher, colder tones of midday sunlight. 

12 Things to Consider When Photographing Boats

Photographs © Allan Weitz

12 Things to Consider When Photographing Boats

Midday light tends to be cooler and more contrasty, compared to early morning and late afternoon light. Shadows also tend to be darker. You can take good boat pictures during the midday hours, but you have to work within these parameters.

2. Wind

Winds also tend to quiet down at sunrise and sunset, resulting in still waters and better-defined reflections, especially when photographing boats at rest.

If, however you’re photographing sailboats, the lack of wind makes it hard to fill the sails and get the boat moving fast enough to get good running shots.

As a failsafe, many sailboats have auxiliary power that moves the boat along, but be aware—a boat powered by wind cuts through the water and fills its sails differently than a boat under power.

12 Things to Consider When Photographing Boats

12 Things to Consider When Photographing Boats

3. Cameras

You can photograph boats using any camera-and-lens combination, as long as you understand what your camera and/or lens can and cannot do.

Larger sensors produce sharper pictures, but sharpness alone doesn’t define what makes for a good photograph, boat or otherwise.

12 Things to Consider When Photographing Boats

4. Lenses

Firefly, a tandem sliding seat rowing boat, was photographed with an 18mm lens on a full-frame camera.

The photograph of the Hinkley motor yacht was photographed with a 300m lens on a full-frame camera.

When angled properly, wide-angle and telephoto lenses can be used to render boats faithfully and realistically. 

The best focal length to use when photographing a given boat is greatly determined by the camera-to-boat distance. If you’re shooting a boat at rest, fixed focal length lenses are perfectly fine.

Conversely, if you are shooting a boat under way, you’re much better off with a zoom lens, regardless of whether you are shooting from a fixed position on land or from a chase boat.

The key is to maintain a balance between boat, water, and sky.

 

If you would like to read the rest of this article click here:  Boat Photography

 

12 Things to Consider When Photographing Boats

Taking Zoo Photographs That Don’t Look Like They Were Taken at the Zoo

Taking Zoo Photographs That Don’t Look Like They Were Taken at the Zoo

Taking Zoo Photographs That Don’t Look Like They Were Taken at the Zoo

Being a photographer is seriously awesome.

There are about a bazillion reasons why, but I’ve compiled 54 really fantastic ones for your reading pleasure.

Now, why would I bother taking the time to write this massive list?

Well, maybe you’re just curious about photography, but aren’t sure if you should really dive into it.

Fair warning, these reasons will totally convince you that photography is an amazing skill to develop. I’m sure of it.

Here’s the deal. I think everyone should get into photography. (Yes, everyone). You don’t ever have to do it professionally. That’s not what being a photographer means (you can read more about our thoughts on that here).

Being a photographer just means you really love photography. And hopefully after reading all of this, you’ll see that it can give you more than you ever imagined.

One last note before we jump in. These reasons aren’t all just made up off the top of my head. We actually just wrapped up a giveaway, and asked the question “What first got you interested in photography?”.

With 250 responses we were able to get an amazing peek at what makes photography so special for lots of folks. So we read all the responses, took notes, and pulled out the common themes. That’s what makes up this list! So credit for all these awesome reasons goes to our fantastic readers. Thanks for sharing so openly everyone. You rock.

1. CAPTURE A MEMORY THAT YOU CAN HAVE FOREVER

With a photo you can capture a moment, and have it forever.

I think we take that idea for granted, with photography being so ubiquitous these days.

But seriously just take a second to appreciate that.

If you did that in Ancient Greece they’d call you a sorcerer. Or a god.

54 Reasons Why YOU Should Be A Photographer

2. NOTICE THE DETAILS

Photography changes the way you see things.

It’s actually quite an incredible transformation to experience.

Suddenly you notice light, shapes, colours, textures, people, bulidings, trees, flowers…

Everything around you looks different when you start to see the world as a photographer.

3. SEE THE BEAUTY IN THE EVERY DAY

Once you start noticing details, you inevitably start to see how much beauty is all around you.

Every day is filled with it—in the most ordinary or unexpected places.

When you start to derive happiness from seeing some particuarly awesome light, you’ll realize that photography has changed your everyday experience.

54 Reasons Why YOU Should Be A Photographer

4. LIVE IN THE PRESENT

And to round out this theme, photography, through it’s ability to help you see details and notice the beauty around you, helps you to truly live in the present.

When you shoot you have to be aware of everything if you want to capture it.

You can’t be thinking about the movie you watched last night, or what you’re going to have for dinner.

Photography focuses you on the now, which is incredibly valuable!

 

5. FORGET YOUR WORRIES

Photography is something you get immersed in (see above!).

You lose yourself in shooting, and all your worries and daily stresses just melt away.

 

6. SHARE IT WITH THE IMPORTANT PEOPLE IN YOUR LIFE

One of the top ways people got into photography (according to our results) was through someone important to them.

People credited their mother, father, aunt, uncle, grandmother, grandfather, sibling, friend and even great-grandparents.

Photography is a passion that you can share with the important people in your life.

You can pass it down to the next generation, and spur their love of this amazing art.

 

7. DOCUMENT YOUR FAMILY

And the MOST common reason folks got interested in photography was because of family—particularly having their own children.

Photography is a way to document the lives of your kids, and that alone is worth learning all you can about it.

One day you may also be documenting the lives of your grandkids!!

 

If you would like to read the rest of this article click here:  Why YOU Should Be A Photographer 

 

54 Reasons Why YOU Should Be A Photographer

54 Reasons Why YOU Should Be A Photographer

54 Reasons Why YOU Should Be A Photographer

54 Reasons Why YOU Should Be A Photographer

Being a photographer is seriously awesome.

There are about a bazillion reasons why, but I’ve compiled 54 really fantastic ones for your reading pleasure.

Now, why would I bother taking the time to write this massive list?

Well, maybe you’re just curious about photography, but aren’t sure if you should really dive into it.

Fair warning, these reasons will totally convince you that photography is an amazing skill to develop. I’m sure of it.

Here’s the deal. I think everyone should get into photography. (Yes, everyone). You don’t ever have to do it professionally. That’s not what being a photographer means (you can read more about our thoughts on that here).

Being a photographer just means you really love photography. And hopefully after reading all of this, you’ll see that it can give you more than you ever imagined.

One last note before we jump in. These reasons aren’t all just made up off the top of my head. We actually just wrapped up a giveaway, and asked the question “What first got you interested in photography?”.

With 250 responses we were able to get an amazing peek at what makes photography so special for lots of folks. So we read all the responses, took notes, and pulled out the common themes. That’s what makes up this list! So credit for all these awesome reasons goes to our fantastic readers. Thanks for sharing so openly everyone. You rock.

1. CAPTURE A MEMORY THAT YOU CAN HAVE FOREVER

With a photo you can capture a moment, and have it forever.

I think we take that idea for granted, with photography being so ubiquitous these days.

But seriously just take a second to appreciate that.

If you did that in Ancient Greece they’d call you a sorcerer. Or a god.

54 Reasons Why YOU Should Be A Photographer

2. NOTICE THE DETAILS

Photography changes the way you see things.

It’s actually quite an incredible transformation to experience.

Suddenly you notice light, shapes, colours, textures, people, bulidings, trees, flowers…

Everything around you looks different when you start to see the world as a photographer.

3. SEE THE BEAUTY IN THE EVERY DAY

Once you start noticing details, you inevitably start to see how much beauty is all around you.

Every day is filled with it—in the most ordinary or unexpected places.

When you start to derive happiness from seeing some particuarly awesome light, you’ll realize that photography has changed your everyday experience.

54 Reasons Why YOU Should Be A Photographer

4. LIVE IN THE PRESENT

And to round out this theme, photography, through it’s ability to help you see details and notice the beauty around you, helps you to truly live in the present.

When you shoot you have to be aware of everything if you want to capture it.

You can’t be thinking about the movie you watched last night, or what you’re going to have for dinner.

Photography focuses you on the now, which is incredibly valuable!

 

5. FORGET YOUR WORRIES

Photography is something you get immersed in (see above!).

You lose yourself in shooting, and all your worries and daily stresses just melt away.

 

6. SHARE IT WITH THE IMPORTANT PEOPLE IN YOUR LIFE

One of the top ways people got into photography (according to our results) was through someone important to them.

People credited their mother, father, aunt, uncle, grandmother, grandfather, sibling, friend and even great-grandparents.

Photography is a passion that you can share with the important people in your life.

You can pass it down to the next generation, and spur their love of this amazing art.

 

7. DOCUMENT YOUR FAMILY

And the MOST common reason folks got interested in photography was because of family—particularly having their own children.

Photography is a way to document the lives of your kids, and that alone is worth learning all you can about it.

One day you may also be documenting the lives of your grandkids!!

 

If you would like to read the rest of this article click here:  Why YOU Should Be A Photographer 

 

54 Reasons Why YOU Should Be A Photographer

Getting Started With Off-Camera Flash

Getting Started With Off-Camera Flash

Getting Started With Off-Camera Flash

by David Peterson

Those of you who read my tips know that I don’t have a very high regard for flash. I think it usually gets in the way of taking a good photo, and it tends to suck all of the natural beauty from your images. If you want a sure-fire way to turn a potentially good image into something so-so, just turn on your flash, get up close your subject, and take the shot.

But today I want to talk about something different. I want to talk about off camera flash, what it does differently, and how to get started with using it. I want to provide you with an understanding so you can go and start pursuing it on your own.

Why use off-camera flash? What’s different about it?

Image by Banditos by Flickr user Amin Choc]

 

Why use off-camera flash? What’s different about it?

There’s a reason those pictures you take with your on-camera flash look so dull and amateurish. It’s because you’re shining a light directly at your subjects, and it’s reflecting directly back into the camera. Just like a deer in headlights, your subjects look pale and lifeless. Simply put, the light from a flash is just too harsh for it to look natural when fired directly at your subjects.

Flash also causes red-eye when fired straight on. The light from a flash reflects off of the blood that naturally circulates through your eyes to keep them healthy and functional. When the light is particularly bright (as it is with a flash), a lot of red light gets reflected back toward the lens.

How to take pictures with an off-camera flash

Use off-camera flash to
create mood lighting in situations
where it would otherwise
be unavailable

By taking the flash off of the camera and using it somewhere else in the scene, you are making the light from the flash less harsh and bringing more of it under your control. You can say goodbye to red eye, and hello to a world of new creative possibilities. Now you no longer have to light everything from the front. You can create shadows and play with contrast, all while creating a more natural look in your photos.

What you need to get started

Half the reason most people don’t start using off-camera flash is because it’s expensive, sometimes prohibitively so. Some setups require wireless remote triggers and multiple flash units, all at a cost of around $2,000. There are other ways to do it, of course, but you will still have to pay for a good flash unit, and those will cost you at least $300. I hate to say it, but this is one of those areas where paying for good equipment does help out.

If you would like to read the rest of this artical, please go here: How to take pictures with an off-camera flash

Getting Started With Off-Camera Flash

Free Photo Editing Plugins by Nik

Free Photo Editing Plugins by Nik

Advanced photo editing simplified

Free Photo Editing Plugins by Nik

Add the power of the Nik Collection by Google to your workflow today.

 

Advanced editing, simplified

Easily create the photos you’ve imagined with seven powerful plug-ins for Photoshop®, Lightroom®, or Aperture®.

 

Make precise edits quickly

Use U Point® technology to selectively edit just the parts of your photos that need touching up without losing time on complex masks and selections.

 

Analog Efex Pro

Explore the look and feel of classic cameras, films, and lenses.

Color Efex Pro

A comprehensive set of filters for color correction, retouching, and creative effects.

Silver Efex Pro

Master the art of black-and-white photography with darkroom-inspired controls.

Viveza

Selectively adjust the color and tonality of your images without complicated masks or selections.

HDR Efex Pro

From natural to artistic, explore the full potential of HDR photography.

 Sharpener Pro

Bring out hidden details consistently with the professional’s choice for image sharpening.

Dfine

Improve your images with noise reduction tailored to your camera.

To get more details and upload the Free filters go here to the Google Nik collection

Free Photo Editing Plugins by Nik

Photographing Sports Indoors and Out

Photographing Sports Indoors and Out

Photographing Sports Indoors and Out

 

Almost all of us have times when we need, or want, to shoot a sporting event.

Perhaps your child is in a soccer program, a friend’s kid is on a school softball team, a nephew in high school competes in track, or you’re taking your camera to a professional event.

Regardless of the sport, you can do several things to make the best pictures possible.

 

Catching the Action

First, think about where you want to position yourself.

Think about where most of the action occurs in the sport you’re photographing.

In some sports, you can catch the action coming at you, if you’re positioned correctly.

Sometimes the top of the bleachers is the best place to shoot from, for that high angle, looking down on the court (especially good for volleyball).

With amateur events, you can often move around and try different spots.

If possible, leave the stands and go to the sidelines.

That will put you closer to the action and at the players’ eye-level.

 

Once you begin photographing a particular sporting event, you’ll begin to realize that each sport brings its own sense of timing of the action.

The more you shoot, the better your timing will become.

Even the pros practice shooting at the beginning of a season to hone their sense of anticipation of the action of the game.

The best photos are taken at the peak action; this would be right as the basketball player jumps up to make a basket, just before a volleyball serve or when the cheerleaders have completed a pyramid.

In baseball, action in the infield (catching, throwing, plays at bases and home plate) usually make the best pictures.

In soccer, the most important action usually happens near the goal.

 

COMPOSITION: Think about your composition. Is the background cluttered?

See if you can safely move to another position where you can compose an image that isn’t full of distractions.

LENS CHOICE: More than likely you’re going to want to use a telephoto lens on a Nikon D-SLR, or a COOLPIX camera with a large zoom range.

The most popular zoom lenses often reach out to 200mm or 300mm. The tighter you can shoot (the more you fill the frame), the better the pictures will look.

AUTOFOCUS: If there’s fast action, make sure to change your camera’s autofocus setting to Continuous.

That way it will track the action to keep the photo in focus.

And you may also want to set the AF points to Dynamic Autofocus to make it easier to keep the focus on your subject.

If your camera has scene modes, you can choose the sports setting, which tells the camera that you are shooting sports and will need a fast shutter speed to capture the action.

 

Reactions among players make for great candid photos.

Elizabeth Barbieri
D50, 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 lens, 1/1250 sec., f/5.6, ISO 400, Matrix metering. Reactions among players make for great candid photos.

 

FOCUS LOCK: If you seem to have trouble following the action and keeping it in focus, try setting the focus at one place and waiting for the action to get there.

For example, during a baseball game, you can focus on a particular base and wait for the runner to get there.

And, if you’re pre-focusing on one spot, use either the focus lock button (often labeled “AF-L, or “AE-L AF-L””) or switch the autofocus to Manual and adjust it by turning the focus ring on the lens.

 

If you would like to read the rest of this artical, please go here: Photographing Sports

 

Photographing Sports Indoors and Out

Understanding ISO Sensitivity

Understanding ISO Sensitivity

Understanding ISO Sensitivity

 

Photography is built on the three pillars of exposure: shutter speed, aperture and sensitivity.

Shutter and aperture are controls for adjusting how much light comes into the camera.

How much light is needed is determined by the sensitivity of the medium used.

That was as true for glass plates as it is for film and now digital sensors.

Over the years that sensitivity has been expressed in various ways, most recently as ASA and now ISO.

 

The “normal” range of ISO is about 200 to 1600. With today’s digital cameras you can sometimes go as low as 50 or as high as 204,800.

The number chosen has two important qualities associated with it.

First, it sets the amount of light needed for a good exposure.

The lower the number, the more light required.

The more light that’s required, the more likely a slow shutter speed will have to be used.

That means low ISOs, like 100 or 200, are most often used in bright situations (like sunlight) or when the camera is mounted on a tripod.

If you don’t have a lot of light, or need a fast shutter speed, you would probably raise the ISO.

 

Understanding ISO Sensitivity

Understanding ISO Sensitivity

 

Each time you double the ISO (for example, from 200 to 400), the camera needs only half as much light for the same exposure.

So if you had a shutter speed of 1/250 at 200 ISO, going to 400 ISO would let you get the same exposure at 1/500 second (providing the aperture remains unchanged).

This is why high ISOs are so often used indoors, especially at sporting events.

Needing a fast shutter speed to stop action, photographers regularly choose ISO 1600 or above.

To read the rest of the artical please go here: Understanding ISO

___________________________________________________________

Understanding ISO Sensitivity

 

Enjoying the Ride: Nikon D750 Style

Enjoying the Ride: Nikon D750 Style

Enjoying the Ride: Nikon D750 Style

“When you show up at an athlete’s door with six cameras rigged to a car they are pretty impressed,” says Dan Marks, co-founder and co-producer/director of South District Films, referencing a project he’s doing with cinematographer Anthony Arendt and Adam Goldberg, his business partner and also the series producer/director. Jetting around the Unites States has taken the crew to N.Y.C., Cleveland, Baltimore and other cities where they chat with sports names such as CC Sabathia, Steve Smith, D’Angelo Russell, Karl-Anthony Towns and Riley Hawk.

Vice Sports’ Ride Along hits a reality television bulls-eye. Knowing that athletes often have very little free time, the producers invented a way to grab small talk without a big time commitment. They created a recipe that encourages casual, free form, intimate conversation—the Ride Along concept. Shares Marks, “While sitting in an SUV, either to or from practice or a game, we find that athletes are pretty relaxed. It’s an unpretentious setting that encourages open dialogue. They’ll talk about just about anything. Sounds like Jerry Seinfeld’s series on comedians, doesn’t it?”

Continuing, “For the concept to fly, we needed a small form camera that was not intimidating, could capture excellent quality and would work through all conditions. The D750’s compact size makes it easy to rig, as well as travel with. We’re able to capture a true 1080p image at 23.98 fps.”

Enjoying the Ride: Nikon D750 Style

Nikon D750 & AF-S NIKKOR 24-120mm f/4G ED VR lens rigged up to capture driver POV footage for Ride Along.

 

Hooking Up

It generally takes a staff of four to rig and acquire footage for an episode. That single web episode, once edited, runs roughly five minutes or less in length, but the in-transit capture can last 45 to 75 minutes. Marks operates as the on-site director of photography. Tagging along will be an audio operator, one cameraman, plus a rigger. Six Nikon D750 bodies are configured to the vehicle and aimed to record the interviewee from various angles. The capture space is tested well before picking up the athlete. Nikon cameras are placed using suction cup mounts, rods and ball joints supplied by the key grip person. Notes Marks, “An interviewer in the car poses questions, but the show focuses on the athlete. As a result, we have to position each lens to keep that person out of the frame.”

Cameras are always set to 1080p 23.98 fps. A custom flat profile is dialed-in by the DoP, Arendt; that profile is later color graded. “Auto ISO is always turned on and transitioned from 100 to 3200; specific ISO is not really set when shooting. The Auto ISO assists when going in and out of shadows/dark areas; it feathers very nicely,” explains Marks.

If You would like to read the rest of the story go here: Enjoying The Ride With Nikon

Enjoying the Ride: Nikon D750 Style

How to Choose the Best Lens for Travel Photography

How to Choose the Best Lens for Travel Photography

How to Choose the Best Lens for Travel Photography

 

A Post By: Andrew S. Gibson

If you were to ask me what the best lens for street and travel photography is, the first thing I would advise you to do, is to think about what you need from the lens. In my case, the following criteria are important to me –  your list, of course, may differ.

  • The lens should be small, lightweight, and unobtrusive.
  • The optical quality must be excellent.
  • Autofocus performance needs to be very good.
  • As I sometimes shoot in low light, a wide aperture is a must.

The standard lens falls in-between these two extremes. It lets you get close enough to be involved in the scene, but not so close that people are overly bothered by what you are doing. It helps you blend in to what is a very common thing these days – people taking photos on the street (although most often with camera phones, not actual cameras).

How to Choose the Best Lens for Travel Photography

These criteria should point to several lenses that may be suitable for you. Perhaps you own these lenses already – in which case the next step is to take them out into the street, and take some photos with them. This is important, because you may find that in practice, the lens you prefer to use is different from the one you thought might be best.

For example, you may think that a zoom lens will come in useful because of the convenience of being able to quickly adjust focal length. But in reality, find that you prefer a prime lens with a wider aperture for shooting in low light, or using selective focus.

On the other hand, you may be approaching this exercise with the intent of choosing a lens to buy. It’s difficult to test a lens if you don’t already own it, although you may be able to borrow or rent it. If you can’t do that, the next best thing to do is to go online and do some research. Read some reviews of the lens. Look for articles written by photographers whose photos you like, who also use the lens you’re considering. Go onto Flickr and see if there is a group dedicated to the lens. Explore some good quality forums, ask the members if anybody owns the lens, and what they think of it.

My Favorite Lens

By now you are probably wondering what is my favorite lens for street and photography. The answer is – the Fujinon 35mm f/1.4 lens. To be honest, this has come as a surprise to me. When I first bought into the Fujifilm camera system, I thought that I would either prefer a short telephoto lens (such as the 56mm f/1.2) or a moderate wide-angle (like the 18mm f/2 pancake lens) for street and travel photography.

But in practice, I’ve found that I prefer the 35mm. It has received a lot of praise since it was released with the X-Pro-1 several years ago, and is a standard prime lens (for APS-C cameras). The angle-of-view is very similar to that of a 50mm lens on a full-frame camera, or a 25mm lens on a Micro four-thirds camera.

How to Choose the Best Lens for Travel Photography

So, why has this lens worked so well for me? The short answer is that it is extremely versatile. I prefer to take the simple approach to street photography, and that means reducing the number of choices that I have to make. Using a prime means I don’t have to think about focal length, yet the versatility of this lens means I can use it a number of different ways.

For example, when photographing people I can keep my distance and frame the person in the context of their environment.

Or I can get closer and concentrate more on the person.

How How to Choose the Best Lens for Travel Photography

I can also get close to the subject for a tight detail shot, like this one.

How to Choose the Best Lens for Travel PhotographyPhotography

 

Standard lenses for street photography

Working distance is a term used in macro and close-up photography to describe how far the lens is from the subject. You can apply this concept to street, and travel photography too. If you are using a telephoto lens, you will be farther away from the subject. That’s great for not being noticed, but it can also lead to a kind of detached feeling in the image. The viewer can tell you weren’t close to the action, and there may be a sense of lack of involvement in the scene.

How to Choose the Best Lens for Travel Photography

If you would like to read the rest of the artical go here.

6 Tips for Doing a Successful One Year Photo Project

6 Tips for Doing a Successful One Year Photo Project

6 Tips for Doing a Successful One Year Photo Project

6 Tips for Doing a Successful One Year Photo Project

A Post By: Karthika Gupta

Happy 2016, welcome to the start of a new year. This is a great time to start new projects – be it losing weight, getting fit by regularly exercising, committing to eating right, or improving and growing your photography knowledge and skill.

We all have many different goals when it comes to our passion for photography. A great way to get started is by working on personal and professional photography projects. One simple yet effective way to work on your photography skills is to participate in a 365 Photo Project. Quite simply, a 365, as it is most often called, is a commitment to take a photo a day for 365 days straight. You can get as specific or as general as you like in terms of what you photograph, when you photograph, or even how you photograph. There are no set rules – the only requirement being you must take at least one photo each day, that counts towards your 365.

That being said, there are some basic guidelines to successfully complete a 365 – a sort of dos and don’ts list, if you will. 6 Tips for Doing a Successful One Year Photo Project.

#1 Be honest about why you want to do a 365

Talk to anyone, and you are bound to hear many different reasons why you should do a 365 photo project. Some people feel it improves your photography because you are consistently taking at least one picture a day. Others feel it is a fun way to document and record a year in your life. It is also a great way to experiment and learn about light, composition, subject, equipment, and develop and hone in on your observation skills.

Since you know you have to take at least one photo every day, you are constantly looking for good photo opportunities everywhere, and tend to become more observant of your environment. No matter what your reason, be very clear on exactly why you want to start a 365, and document that as part of the process. This will help clarify your goals, and make the process more enjoyable.

#2 Create a routine for your 365

Just like anything else in life, having a routine provides a sense of organization. Figure out when is your best time to photograph, and stick to that routine. For me, the best time is around 9:00-10:30 a.m. It is early enough in the morning when my brain is quite active, there are no distractions, and the morning light is quite clean and bright. Of course that is not to say that I don’t photograph at other times of the day, but when I am working on a project, or an assignment, that’s my go-to time. And yes, I do treat my 365 as an assignment. The only difference is that I am my own client!

My general task list for my 365 -generally, all it takes is 10 minutes of my time:

  • Shoot 365 photo – five minutes
  • Edit photo – two minutes
  • Load to Dropbox – 30 seconds
  • Post on Instagram – 30 seconds
  • Write a caption and one line description for the image – one minute
  • Add hashtags – one minute
  • Total – 10 minutes approximately

 

If you would like to read the rest of this artical, please go here: 6 Tips for Doing a Successful 365 Photo Project

%d bloggers like this: